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WHO IS CATALAN AND WHERE IS CATALONIA ANYWAY?

by Montse

Having studied the language of Cervantes for 20 years, travelling throughout South America, and being rather proud of my linguistic abilities, I arrived in Barcelona and to my great astonishment and dismay no longer was this considered a virtue, but on the contrary it was considered to be a handicap. Isn't Barcelona in Spain, was my naive, ingenuous question? The clear and concise answer was "NO". According to the citizens of this beautiful country, rich in history and culture, it is situated in the Iberian Peninsula, and Catalonia is a country of its own, with its own history, culture, literature and, above all, language.

Never being very fond of nationalism or not at all patriotic myself, having left my own birthplace at the tender age of fifteen, I found it, to say the least, extremely difficult to get used to the hail of flags coming at me from every direction, flags (4 red stripes on a yellow background are not exactly my favourite colours either) made into bath towels, bed sheets, rucksacks, the proverbial T-shirts, just about anything in fact, I've even found Barbie dolls victoriously waving the inevitable flag.

In spite of national statistics putting the Catalan population at 6 million I have serious doubts, perhaps it would be better to define exactly who is a Catalan, according to the most radical members of this society, we can exclude anyone who doesn't speak Catalan on a daily basis, indeed, anyone who persists in being able to hold an understandable conversation in Spanish, anyone who calls the Spanish language "Spanish" it should be "Castilian", anyone who dares to say they actually like flamenco dancing or, and anyone who, God forbid, professes to enjoy bullfights, anyone who wasn't born here, anyone whose mother or father wasn't born here, anyone who doesn't support Barca, the local football team, anyone who doesn't have a Catalan flag hanging from their balcony on the Catalan National Day and does not pledge allegiance to it and, last but not least, anyone who does not defend vehemently all the previously mentioned points before the 'enemy' which is, of course, the rest of Spain. This eliminates quite a few people, in fact, I would dearly like to know exactly how many of them there really are.

Even though this might sound like a diatribe against Catalonia, on the contrary, I must insist that I am a great lover of this marvellous country and a firm believer in respecting its history and culture. I was quite disappointed when Spain joined the European Community. I thought with great apprehension that this might mean we won't have to queue for days in Government Buildings for some official form or other, to be told we are in the wrong department anyway, that the lorry drivers won't drink their traditional half a bottle of brandy before they start work in the mornings, that this may mean people will actually respect the Highway Code, no more three hour lunches nor that wonderful invention called the "siesta", my fear is based on the fact that along with all these changes there will also be a high price to pay, the arrival of that Northern European national illness called depression and anxiety, exorbitant food prices, deserted streets devoid of any character, music and colour!

This country is going through a metamorphosis, however at the proverbial Latin speed, slower than expected, people are still slightly tipsy all day long which effectively avoids alcoholism and as long as people still enjoy life here the basic principles are not at risk. I am quite sure if this country ever really does get organised it will certainly lose a lot of its charm and quaintness. Nevertheless, the Catalan people were probably the happiest of all the people of this Iberian Peninsula to join the European Community, now if they have to speak another language they have the desperate hope it will be English or any language really, except Castilian.

However, I seriously do not think the Castilian language is at risk of becoming, like Latin, a dead language, at least not for the moment. Catalans have one great virtue they are extremely efficient business people, often compared with the Jewish race as far as ability in this area is concerned, and whilst they would lose business by not speaking Castilian the risk is minimal, they could probably speak Swahili or an obscure oriental dialect if it meant a possible way of convincing a potential client or promoting their business.

They certainly deserve respect and admiration for producing many wonderful and talented people such as the architect Gaudi, with his buildings which look like either enormous melting ice creams or had been designed by someone who had visited Disneyland once too often. Let's face it, any race of people who can make a going business out of a half finished church (La Sagrada Familia) have really got it together.

Their national dance is also a display of Catalan culture, it's such a pity it can't be just a little more lively and less like a paranoiac, morose version of the Greek Sirtaki. It usually takes place in front of the church in the village square where they all dance in a ring on their tiptoes, after the women have carefully placed their handbags in the middle, to the sad, mournful tones of a special wooden clarinet whilst vigilantly keeping an eye on their valuable possessions in the centre of the circle. I am never really sure why they all look so miserable while carrying out this ritualistic folk dance, I would like to think they are absorbed in deep reflection on their national heritage but it could be, since it is usually Sunday morning when they are hopping round in these gloomy circles, they are thinking about the traditional Catalan sausages and haricot beans they still have to cook. I quite like a good old heel stamping flamenco myself, with its wonderful classical guitar, and bull fighting can be a bit gory and it is most advisable to leave before the unpleasant, gruesome part when they finally get round to killing the poor beast, but the grace and elegance of the preliminaries to this ritual are incredibly and undeniably stirring.

All this radical nationalistic struggle is all really quite understandable if we stop to look for a minute at the history of this land - years of control, repression, censorship, and torture - it is easy to grasp the reasons, if not sympathise with, their need to identify as a separate nation and not want to get mixed up with those responsible for their years of suffering. However, I have never thought two wrongs make a right and although they should never completely forget the torment and misery of the past, they should perhaps concentrate their physical and economic resources on making this a better, more welcoming and forgiving society than before instead of trying to retaliate by taking vengeance on the errors of history.



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